most precious blood - a photo on Flickriver

Lower East. Canal at Mulberry. Year of the Dragon. Chinatown v. Little Italy. Triads clash with Cosa Nostra. East meets West.

At one time, Canal Street was the DMZ, the Great Wall between Chinatown and Little Italy. No longer. Chinatown absorbed Canal Street and assimilated everything around Little Italy.

"daddy, i though we were in Chinatown? these stores are italian, right?" the young girl asked as her father steered her through the crowds. "yes, dear, dont worry, there's only a few blocks of them left."

i put down my americano, bemused. my brother and i were having a coffee at La Bella Ferrara, while Ingrid cabbed over from Chelsea to shoot with us. Mike, my brother was off getting some shots. I was enjoying my coffee, watching people, listening.

La Bella Ferrara is right on the corner of Canal and Mulberry. It is the perimeter wire of Little Italy. Directly across the street, like a guard box, is the Shrine of San Gennaro, the patron saint of Naples. San Gennaro, or St. Januarius, was martyred by the Roman emperor Diocletian. Very little is known about his acts or the exact circumstances of his martyrdom, but after his death his body was brought to Naples, and in the Neapolitan tradition of saints, his blood, captured in two small phials, was found to gurgle and bubble when placed near the head of the same martyr. Neapolitan immigrants brought San Genarro to New York with them for protection. The Italians of Little Italy have for the most part assimilated and dispersed themselves away. Occasionally they come in from the outer boroughs or North Jersey to remember the taste of things Italian; a gellato, a canoli, a plate of bolognese and a carafe of chianti, take home a pound of gabagoo. But Little Italy is a tourist sanctuary now, no longer a thriving migrant neighborhood. From La Bella Ferrara, on the border between the swelling and robust Chinatown and the retiring Little Italy, I can see that San Gennaro has his work cut out for him these days.

Taken in: United States / New York / New York (show map)

Taken on: October 30, 2005

Tags:

stone

statue

nyc

little italy

canal at mulberry

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geo:lat=40.717241

geo:lon=-73.998091

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